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Bye-bye, sweet bay

by Matthew Denholm

16 July 2005 - WHEN French explorers met a group of 48 Aborigines at the southernmost tip of Australia in the early 1790s, the contrast with other early contacts could not have been more stark.

Rather than a fearful exchange of muskets and spears, the French and the Lyluequonny people of Tasmania's far south exchanged songs, dances and culinary tips.
The legacy of their joyful encounter over some weeks is said to provide 30 per cent of our knowledge of pre-European indigenous life.

But 212 years later, the scene of this extraordinarily successful cultural exchange, the still relatively pristine and wild Recherche Bay, is the centre of bitter conflict.

The bay's northeast peninsula is due to be selectively clear-felled by a private landowner to provide woodchips to Gunns Ltd. The southern end, at Rocky Bay, is the site of a tourist development approved by the federal and state governments, despite being in a national park.

A group of locals, backed by a growing band of archeologists and historians, warns that logging plans and tourism development are about to trash one of Australia's most important historic and cultural sites.

They, in turn, are accused of hijacking history to secure an environmental outcome. The debate is about to go national, with federal Environment Minister Ian Campbell considering whether to grant the bay, or sections of it, National Heritage listing.

Public interest, already enlivened by a published history of Recherche Bay released recently by historian Bruce Poulson, who lives near the area, will be further stimulated by a pictorial book highlighting the bay's stunning natural beauty, due to be released shortly by Greens senator Bob Brown.

If Campbell does not grant the bay National Heritage listing, or grants the listing but decides not to halt the logging or the development, Brown is determined to create a national furore of the kind that eventually led to federal intervention to stop the Franklin Dam.

If Campbell decides against taking on the Tasmanian Government, which fiercely opposes National Heritage listing and defends the logging as well as the development, Brown and several members of the Recherche Bay Protection Group will pack their bags for France.

Their delegation would seek to stir up a wave of public concern in France, where several scientists are already pushing their Government to urge Canberra to protect Recherche Bay.

Independent consultant and archeologist Michael Pearson recommended Recherche be considered for National Heritage listing in his landmark report on maritime heritage, delivered to Campbell's department last year. Pearson tells Inquirer the bay has a "very, very strong case" for inclusion on the list. The view is echoed by eminent archeologist John Mulvaney, a founding member of the National Heritage Commission, who has visited the site.

Journals of the French, who twice visited Recherche Bay in 1792 and 1793 while searching for their lost maritime hero La Perouse, reveal the visitors were enamoured of the Aborigines, regarding them as existing in "a state of perfection". Spears were thrown, but only in sporting contests, which also extended to running, stone throwing and hurdles. The expedition's artist, Nicholas Piron, became so enthusiastic that he stripped naked and allowed himself to be smeared with ochre and charcoal.

Even the top brass were charmed. French admiral Bruni D'Entrecasteaux described the Aborigines as "human beings so close to nature, whose candour and kindness contrast so much with the vices of civilisation".

D'Entrecasteaux's expedition failed to find La Perouse, but discovered a paradise in Van Diemen's Land more than a decade before settlement began in Hobart: "With each step, one encounters the beauties of unspoilt nature."

Poulson, who documents these encounters in his book Recherche Bay: A Short History, says Recherche was also where the first white woman set foot in Tasmania: the remarkable Louise Girardin, a 38-year-old disguised as a male steward. At one point, she was forced to hide in her cabin because the Aborigines were demanding to see the Frenchmen's genitalia, refusing to believe that there were no women among them.

Not content with befriending the natives, French scientists on board the ships Recherche and Esperance planted vegetable gardens, established observatories, identified 100 new plant species (including Tasmania's floral emblem, the blue gum), and made a discovery in geo-magnetism that transformed global navigation.

The remains of an observatory and a recently discovered walled garden made by the French during their first visit in 1792 will be protected under state heritage law. But this protection does not extend to the rest of the bay, except for a 100m zone around the northeast coastline.

Like other archeologists, Pearson believes it is highly likely other evidence will be found of the French. This could include a forge built by the French and the grave of crew member Jacques Laurent Boucher, thought to be the first white man buried in Tasmania.

Canberra-based Pearson is reluctant to enter the local debate but is concerned about the possible destruction of undiscovered archeological sites. "Any development or activity that potentially disturbed the sites or [was in] the vicinity of sites would not be one that I would support," he says.

With work ready to begin on a logging road on the northeast peninsula and a road already being carved into Rocky Bay for the tourist development, Campbell's deliberations are in danger of becoming an academic exercise.

"This is probably the last time we'll see it like this," says local amateur maritime historian Greg Hogg as he wanders along the long beach at Rocky Bay. "This is the last wild beach in this area ... not for much longer."

The wallabies that have left their tracks in the white sand will soon have to share the beach with the inhabitants of 60 tourist chalets, which to be built in the forested hill above it.

Hogg is a member of the Recherche Bay Protection Group, which wants the logging as well as the tourist development to be halted, at least pending an archeological survey of key sites.

But Campbell tells Inquirer he does not believe this is necessary. And he pours cold water on any prospect of federal pressure to stop the logging or the tourist development, even if he were to grant the area heritage listing. "There is a misconception that if you heritage-list something all development has to stop," the minister says.

Campbell says he is willing to take on state governments over National Heritage, but accuses "radical greens" of trying to use the new heritage system to push environmental gains.

Rod King, project manager for the tourist development, denies it will damage archeological sites or spoil the area's pristine environment. "It will have an impact, obviously, but the project has been through one of the most stringent planning processes in the country," he says. This has included archeological work and the design of low-impact waste systems.

Annick Thomas, a member of Tasmania's French community, pleads for a compromise: "There is a middle ground to be found here: there is tourism potential and we should bring people here, but we must leave the cultural heritage intact for future generations."

Source: The Australian

Blacks join bay fight

By SIMON BEVILACQUA

24 April 2005 - TASMANIA'S Aboriginal community has joined the fight to protect the Recherche Bay historic site from logging.

The Tasmanian Aboriginal Land Council has written to the Federal Government asking that the entire north-east peninsula at Recherche Bay be protected.

Private owners David and Robert Vernon plan to log the peninsula on the state's southern tip.

The Tasmanian Government implemented 100m buffer zones along the foreshore and around historic sites where the Vernons have agreed not to log.

But the Aboriginal community has slammed the 100m protection zones as "tokenistic".

"To reserve just a 100m area is a tokenistic attempt by the powers that be to appease the general public who believe the area should be wholly protected," TALC acting manager Colin Hughes said.

TALC requested the site be emergency listed for national heritage significance because it was of cultural importance to the Aboriginal community.

"The French treated us like people, not animals," Mr Hughes said.

"It's a damn shame everyone didn't do the same."

The request for emergency listing was declined by Federal Environment and Heritage Minister Ian Campbell this month.

A French expedition, led by Bruny d'Entrecastreaux, had friendly meetings with Tasmanian Aborigines at Recherche Bay in 1792 and 1793.

French scientists and artists documented their experiences in journals and in sketches of the historic meetings.

The French recorded Aboriginal words, communicated and feasted with Aborigines.

Historians and academics have argued Recherche Bay is significant because French records remain a primary source of information about how Aborigines lived before European invasion.

French records have been used by some of the world's leading academics to construct theories of civilisation, anthropology and race.

The 19th century high priest of evolution, Thomas Huxley, used the French records as evidence for Darwinism.

Modern-day American cognitive anthropologist Stephen Tyler and 19th century archeologist Sir John Lubbock also used the French records to underpin their theories.

TALC told Senator Campbell the French records were important to the Aboriginal community.

Recherche Bay gave the community a better understanding of their old people, TALC said.

French records allowed the community to understand more about how their "old people" lived.

Source: The Murcury

Folly in the forest

By SIMON BEVILACQUA

24 April 2005 - FORMER Forestry Tasmania archeologist Anne McConnell says logging Recherche Bay could be comparable with the destruction of Afghanistan's Buddha statues.

The fact is, she said, nobody really knows.

"The cultural heritage values have not yet been adequately assessed," Ms McConnell said.

Taliban militants were internationally condemned for blowing up the massive stone Buddhas at Bamiyan in Afghanistan.

The carvings, cut into sandstone cliffs, were the world's largest Buddhist sculptures. One was 55 metres high.

The colossal rock statues were destroyed by mortars, dynamite, tanks, anti-aircraft weapons and rockets.

The north-east peninsula at Recherche Bay, on Tasmania's southern tip, will not be under military fire.

It will be hit by bulldozers, chainsaws and fire.

The Tasmanian Government allowed road construction through a wildlife sanctuary to enable timber giant Gunns to log land owned by Launceston brothers David and Robert Vernon.

"Governments worldwide were appalled at the Taliban's wanton destruction of the Buddha statues at Bamiyan," Ms McConnell said. "Are we to stand by and see another place with potentially international heritage values, this time in Tasmania, be wantonly destroyed?"

Ms McConnell has 25 years' experience in heritage management, including seven years as senior archeologist with Forestry Tasmania.

She is scathing in her assessment of the State Government's handling of Recherche Bay, slamming it as "inadequate, ill-informed and embarrassing".

Ms McConnell is not the only irate expert.

The Australian Society of Authors requested emergency National Heritage listing of Recherche Bay peninsula.

The ASA argued the peninsula was historically significant because of a French visit in 1792 and 1793.

The Bruny d'Entrecasteaux voyage conducted world-first science, took botanical specimens, had friendly meetings with Aborigines and charted the island's south-east coast.

ASA said the site:

• Was one of the most important in the history of Australian botany.
• Was where naturalist Labillardiere conducted his first Australian botanical work, a source of type specimens now held in herbaria in Paris, Geneva and Florence. He collected 5000 specimens, including 100 new species.
• Was where the French built an observatory and did pioneering geophysics, proving the earth's magnetic field changed with latitude.
• Was where Felix De Lahaye planted a French garden which may still exist.
• Was the scene of friendly meetings with Aborigines.

The Australian Garden History Society (AGHS) argued a similar case with particular emphasis on the French garden.

Federal Environment Minister Ian Campbell agreed with many aspects of the submissions in his assessment of the emergency listing application.

Mr Campbell said the site may have national heritage value for contribution to knowledge of Tasmanian Aborigines before Europeans and needed further investigation.

"Anthropologists, archeologists and historians subsequently used the information collected during expeditions to develop an understanding about the life and society of Tasmanian Aborigines before European settlement," Mr Campbell said. He also agreed the French garden site, if authentic, could have "outstanding" value.

He concurred the observatory site was internationally significant, as was Labillardiere's botanical collection.

Mr Campbell also agreed French contact with Aborigines may be significant for Aborigines.

"The place may have a strong or special association with the Tasmanian Aboriginal community for social, cultural or spiritual reasons that is of outstanding heritage value," he said.

But Mr Campbell refused listing because he said the logging did not threaten heritage values.

He agreed with the Tasmanian Government that significant cultural heritage was protected by the Forest Practices Code under the Tasmanian Forest Practices Act 1985 and a 100m buffer zone implemented by former state minister Ken Bacon.

Mr Campbell's decision sparked outrage. This was further fuelled by Prime Minister John Howard, only days later, calling for Turkish authorities to stop building a stone wall on a road through Gallipoli's Anzac Cove.

"We are concerned that if you do construct that stone wall it will significantly alter the appearance of the cove," Mr Howard said.

Author Edward Duyker, who has written about French contact in Tasmania, was incensed.

"Even if the north-east peninsula of Recherche Bay contained no historic garden site and no observatory site, it would remain one of the most important locations in the history of Australian botany," Dr Duyker said.

"For the Tasmanian Government to facilitate logging of this area with construction of a road over a conservation area is an obscenity.

"Not to protect the entire peninsula, given its international scientific and cultural significance, is an obscenity.

"How can we expect countries like Turkey to heed our concerns over road construction at Gallipoli when we show little concern for sites such as Recherche Bay, one of the most important French sites in Australia?

"This peninsula was once a place of joyous cultural interaction between Europeans and indigenous Tasmanians and between Europeans and the Tasmania biota, it is tragic that Mr Lennon and the loggers seem determined to drown the echoes of that joy with the sound of chainsaws."ASA chairman Jeremy Fisher said he was extremely disappointed.

"It's a real problem," Dr Fisher said. "Things could be destroyed before they're identified and studied."

Mr Fisher was sympathetic to the Vernons, adding: "Landowners have a right to seek to exploit their land but these issues are so much bigger."

AGHS national chair Colleen Morris said the French garden would lose context if the peninsula was logged.

"We believe a 100m buffer zone is not sufficient to ensure the heritage values of this important area are maintained," she said. "Maintaining a small buffer zone could be likened to keeping the front door of an early colonial house whilst destroying the house around it."

Cultural heritage expert Ms McConnell said it was vital the site was properly assessed.

"To date there has been no formal assessment of cultural landscape values," Ms McConnell said.

Further information:

• If you wish to help stop logging at Recherche Bay vist http://www.recherchebay.org
• Le patrimoine de Recherche Bay est en danger
  La déforestation de la péninsule a été authorisée par le gouvernement tasmanien malgré l’importance culturelle de ce site… Les tronçonneuses ne sont plus très loin. Le point d’atterrissage de l’expédition de d’Entrecasteaux (1792-1793), où de nombreuses espèces botaniques furent découvertes et prélevées, notamment l’Eucalyptus Globulus, emblème floral de la Tasmanie, et le point de rencontre entre les Français et les aborigènes tasmaniens, sera déforesté dans l’année qui vient si l’on n’intervient pas. Une route d’accès vient déjà d’être dégagée par

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